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Peak Chapayev a classic snow climb in the Tien Shan with stunning views of Khan Tengri.
One of our best Expeditions, Director, David Pritt, introduced the Tien Shan Climber expedition to bring this most spectacular and unspoilt region into the reach of the less experienced mountaineer. The mountains in this remote area of Asia are Himalayan in stature, with the highest peak reaching 7443m. The Tien Shan peaks form the rigid backbone of Kyrgyzstan, wedged between China and Kazakhstan.
Our exhilarating journey to Base Camp is initially taken by helicopter up the Inylchek Glacier. At close proximity, you will fly through a vast panorama of classical glaciated and jagged peaks. Our initial period of acclimatisation will be spent practicing glacial and fixed roped skills overlooked by the most northerly 7000m peaks in the world. The shoulder of Peak Chapayev (6150m) is our main objective and we share the route with those attempting to summit the majestic Khan Tengri 7010m. The ascent involves establishing two camps en route, but our approach will be richly rewarded with a vista of tremendous proportions. With our ambition achieved, we can gaze across to the jewel of the Tien Shan itself, Khan Tengri. Its elegant ridges and pyramidal peak elevates its beauty to that of the distinguished profiles of Ama Dablam and the Matterhorn as some of the most beautiful peaks in the world.
The mountaineering on Chapeyev does include steep snow slopes, an exposed snow arete close to Scottish Grade I /II and some steep mixed climbing (grade II) over rock, snow and ice to reach the summit. A less technical expedition in this region is our Alpine Tien Shan Expedition.
* A deposit of £400 will be required at checkout.
Days 1 - 2 | International Flight to Bishkek. Early morning arrival in Bishkek, rest and recoup. Final preparations, food purchases and final sorting of equipment (H,B). |
Day 3 | Morning transfer to Karakol (H,B) |
Day 4 | Early morning Transfer to the heliport at Karkara, by six wheel vehicle, a sense of remoteness will begin to set in. Helicopter to Base Camp at 3900m, a spectacular journey up the North Inylchek glacier. Establish base camp beneath Khan Tengri and Chapayev (C,B,L,D). |
Day 5 - 6 | Acclimatisation and Glacial Skills Training; fixed rope techniques. |
Days 7 - 14 | Ascent of Chapayev (C,B,L,D) |
Day 15 | Return to BC (C,B,L,D) |
Days 16 - 17 | Helicopter and return to Karakol or Bishkek visiting Issyk-Kul Lake to relax and enjoy the warm water and sun! (H,B). |
Day 18 | Return International flight and arrival in UK. |
It is essential for a trip of this type that you are adequately insured. When researching insurance options, please ensure the policy covers you for the following:
Adventure Peaks partners with Global Rescue to offer the world’s leading travel protection services. Medical and security emergencies happen. When they do, we rely on Global Rescue to provide our clients with medical, security, travel risk and crisis response services. Without a membership, an emergency evacuation could cost over $100,000. More than one million members trust Global Rescue to get them home safely when the unexpected happens. We highly recommend our clients enroll with Global Rescue, in particular for peaks over 7000m:
https://partner.globalrescue.com/adventurepeaks/
We are aware the following provide insurance:
Expeditions and Treks under 7000m - Campbell Irvine Direct : http://www.campbellirvine.com/AdventurePeaks
HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK) www.aacuk.org.uk Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
Rothwell & Towler: www.world-first.co.uk Tel: 0345 908 0161 (under 6400m)
J S Insurance: www.jsinsurance.co.uk Tel: 0844 848 1500
Snowcard: www.snowcard.co.uk Tel: 01295 660836
The B.M.C.: www.thebmc.co.uk Tel: 0161 445 6111 (call and speak to Jim. Please note the BMC cannot cover Mt Damavand)
Dogtag: www.dogtag.co.uk Tel: 0800 036 4824 (Check excess etc)
HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK): www.aacuk.org.uk Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
AXA Worldwide Travel Ins: www.axainsurance.com Tel: +44 (0)844 874 0360
Ingle International: www.ingleinternational.com Tel: (USA) 1.800.360.3234
Insure for Less: www.insure4less.com.au (Australian clients)
You do not have to use any of the above, but if you make your own insurance arrangements documentary evidence of your own policy is required.
Please forward the details of your Insurance as soon as you have it: we need the insurance company’s name, their 24 hour emergency telephone number and your insurance policy number – admin@adventurepeaks.com