Ama Dablam expedition 2014

Leader and News updates: Di Gilbert. Departed 8th November 2014.

Altitude 6856m, Grade 5C – A beautiful and challenging mountain in the heart of the Himalaya. View Ama Dablam expedition details and book online

10th November
Update:  All the team arrived in Kathmandu yesterday at various times, minus Will’s bag.  However, the good news is that bag and owner have now been reunited.  Visit to the Tourism Ministry this afternoon to get the permit.  Our in-country agent has organised a cultural evening tonight.  The plan is to catch one of the first flights out of Lukla tomorrow morning.  The team feel they are still probably suffering from various stages of jet lag but are looking forward to the adventures ahead!

Quality Nepalese map:

13th November
We successfully managed to get one of the first flights out of Kathmandu to Lukla a couple of days ago.  It was then a case of organising some equipment for the yaks before walking very very slowly to Phakding for the night.  The next day we maintained our ninja walking pace up to the cirque containing Namche Bazaar.  Today we had a very leisurely stroll up to the Everest View Hotel for our first views of Ama Dablam.

So we have been trekking for 2 days up to the capital of the Solu Khumbu, Namche Bazaar, where we have had a relaxing acclimatisation day. Phurba is obviously happy with our progress, because he was confident to let us walk up to the Everest View Hotel armed with a quality Nepalese map. Today we managed to see our peak for the first time.  Needless to say that the group are having to contain their excitement.

We are accompanied by our Sirdar/Climbing Sherpa Phurba and our second Climbing Sherpa Pasang Sherpa.  Our cook, Rosan and our kitchen boy, Pasang, are in the area but are having a relaxing time (all relative) as we enjoy the luxuries of the tea houses.  They will soon kick into action as we near the mountain.  Tomorrow we will head to Phangboche and then onto Ama Dablam Base Camp.  All the group are in good spirits and are acclimatising well.   Next update BC ?

15th November
The AP team finally left the comforts of Namche Bazaar and headed towards Denboche via the spectacular Tengboche Monestry. The following day saw us head to the Llama in Pangboche for our puja ceremony – in Purbha’s words “the llama is old and would require a helicopter to get him to Base Camp”. The same afternoon we continue up to Ama Dablam Base Camp – home for the next couple of weeks.

We all have a rest day in Base Camp (another puja) – unfortunately cloudy – followed by a day trip up to ABC by Di, Will & Andy. Kevin didn’t feel great so decided to have an extra acclimatisation day enjoying the comforts of Base Camp life then headed up to ABC the following day.

16th November
A quick call from Di – we arrived at Ama Dablam Base Camp yesterday and now have a rest day. The weather has been quite good up to now, but is overcast today so feels a little chilly! We are all enjoying some relaxation before tomorrow’s acclimatisation walk up to Advanced Base Camp at 5400m and back. All are well and looking forwards to the challenge ahead.

18th November
Sat phone connections are very intermittent  in the Khumbu Valley but Di has just called to say the team are making good progress and are back to Base Camp now. Di, Will and Andy spent the night at Yak Camp and are having a rest day today with Kevin and a Sherpa following that routine today.

19th November
Di, Andy, Will and Phurba make the journey to ABC. Kevin and Pasang will follow our itinerary one day later. The trek to ABC is probably further than any of us expected and nobody, except Phurba who has just returned off the Baruntse trip, could say that they had an enjoyable nights sleep.

The following day the team make there way up to Camp 1 – a mixed of scree, boulders and fixed lines. An amazing camp site with some fantastic views along the valleys and of Ama Dablam herself.

20th November
An excellent day up to Camp 2 – apparently the technical crux of the route with the famous yellow tower proving the most entertainment – before the team make the long descent back down to Base Camp. On return to BC Kevin decided to leave the trip.

22nd November
We are making great progress and now have a tent at ABC; a tent at Camp One and a tent at Camp 2. We all rested yesterday and paid over the odds for coke and were delighted when Paul and some of the Mera/Island team popped in to say hello.

This morning Andy (who has been very strong throughout) has departed Base Camp for Camp 1 in preparation for his summit bit – he will be joined by Phurba tomorrow morning at Camp 1 before they both move to Camp 2 the same day. Fingers crossed they will summit the following day.

Di has decided to delay her summit bid departure by 2 days – this will allow Pasang to return and for Andy to clear Camp 2. Will made the decision to join Di and therefore we will be 2 days behind Andy.

25th November
Summit success! Andy and Phurba reached the summit of Ama Dablam today in light winds with no clouds to obscure the spectacular view. Well done to you both! They are now in Camp 2 and will move down the mountain tomorrow. Di and Will are in Camp 1 tonight and will be moving up the mountain tomorrow to Camp 2 ready to make their summit bid in the next few days, weather permitting – Good luck!

27th November
Di has called with an update after returning back to Base Camp and was in great spirits. Both Will and Di climbed to Mushroom Ridge before deciding conditions did not look good higher on the mountain. They enjoyed an amazing days climbing with stunning views and conditions before clearing down the mountain and have just arrived in Base Camp. We’ll post a full update and photos from Di Soon.

28th November
Wow – what an adventure.

Will and Di are obviously gutted not to have summited but sometimes when a routes not in condition, its not in condition.  At least we can hold our heads high and say that we did give it our best.  Despite numerous conversations about trekking options the boys are now set on Kathmandu asap.  As a result of this, we are now in Deboche – the in country team remain in Base Camp packing up and shall probably catch us up in Namchee tomorrow.  Tomorrow we shall head to Namchee and then on to Lukhla.  

As for now, it’s absolutely baltic in Base Camp today (spindrift off Ama Dablam) and we were the last camp bar one to leave ?

1st December
We are all currently tucked up in Lukla waiting for a flight out tomorrow morning.  We should have been here slightly earlier but Will contracted some horrendous tummy bug (egg burps to give you a clue) and we have therefore been walking at a rather slow pace down the valley.  Good news is that he has managed to keep some food down now so hopefully will be fighting fit soon again.