Annapurna IV October 2018

Annapurna IV expedition

Departed 20th October

Leader: Di Gilbert

12th November  Di and the team are back in Base camp, she has sent us the report of their summit attempt.

On the 7th as planned, the Sherpa’s climbed direct to camp II so that they can move to camp III and beyond to continue fixing the route.  Simon, Pablo, Nick, George and Persemba climbed to camp I for the night.

The following day, Di, Dave and Alain climbed to camp II direct where they were reunited with the team.

The morning of the 8th saw George return to Camp 1  accompanied with Biri.   Biri returned back up the mountain to catch up with us as we made our way to camp III.

This was our first time to camp III, situated at c.6450m along the ridge to Annapurna IV.  Straight back on the fixed ropes and then the stopper crevasse which was ok for the guys for long legs, but for Di and Persemba (wee legs) with heavy packs some ingenious tactics were required to get themselves and packs over the gap – the only casualty being Di’s new nalgene which is now in the depth somewhere.

Some straightforward climbing followed and then came the ladders.  Indeed an overhanging ice wall to be scaled before the angle kicked back and then a long traverse to camp III.

It was a very long and very cold day for team members and Sherpas alike (who continue to fix above camp III).  We must have arrived at camp III around 1700 and it was decided that we would get a shout from Phurba at 2300 to start getting ready for the summit push.  Not much time to rest, rewarm, re-hydrate and eat but this is one of the joys of high altitude mountaineering.

On time, Lhakpa thrust his head into the tent back of 2300 to collect water bottles.  Nick and Alain decided to call it a day and would return to base camp with Persemba in the daylight, which left Di, Dave, Simon and Pablo to struggle with big boots and getting dressed.  We  left camp around midnight and not soon after Dave had to return as he had no energy.  So, with 5 Sherpas, Di, Simon and Pablo started on the long day that lay ahead.  First down slightly and then the never ending rising traverse before back on fixed ropes.  It was very cold however we plodded on.  The sun slowly started to rise but provided no warmth.  After about 8 hours we were all pretty cold to be honest and we debated returning.  However, again we pressed on with the promise of sun on the slope and the peak being so close.  After 10 hours the sun finally hit the slope but provided no warmth.  The peak which seemed so close 2 hours ago still seemed miles away.  We were cold, the Sherpa’s were cold.  We had post holed [walking through breakable snow up to your calf] for about 10 hours and we still had to get back.

After another discussion we made the very hard but very sensible decision to call it a day and return back to camp III.  The Sherpa’s who were so keen to push on previously, now very aware how far we still had to go needed absolutely no persuasion to call it a day.

We didn’t get to  the summit, but we have had one hell of a journey trying  This evening base camp at Annapurna IV there will be party, we would love the company, so if you are in the area please pop your head in ….

7th November

The Sherpa team returned to base camp late on the evening of the 5th.  They have managed to successfully scale the overhanging ice wall with the use of the ladder and continued to fix rope to camp 3.  They seem pretty tired but very happy with their progress – Phurba was especially happy with his photos of their latest mini excursion.

Yesterday (6th) was a rest day for everybody.  It was without doubt the warmest day at base camp and it was nice to bask in the sun and chew the fat.  Still windy up high but pleasant at the lower elevations.  Summit plans all formed with it all kicking off today.

The weather was bang on and this morning there looks like very little wind up high. Debs and Norbu was supposed to depart base camp this morning but another night of no sleep and coughing saw Debs make the hard decision to call off her attempt on the mountain.  She is very happy relaxing at base camp and will be our contact over the next few days.

Next up our amazing Sherpas.  The 5 strong fixing team departed next with, yes you guessed it, another 400m of fixing rope, 6mm cord, our 2 climbing ropes and about 2 rucksacks full of snow stakes.  They plan to make it direct to camp 2 today and will then continue to camp 3 tomorrow where they will start fixing the summit ridge.  4 of them will return to camp 3 for the night and one will return to camp 2 to meet the rest of the team.

Pablo and Simon left next with George, Persemba and Nick closely behind.  They plan to head to Camp 1 today and will continue to Camp 2 tomorrow.

Di, Dave and Alain, becoming too comfortable with base camp life made the decision to depart tomorrow after breakfast and will aim directly for camp 2 to meet the team.  From camp 2 we will then move as one unit to camp 3.  From camp 3, we then have our long summit ridge push to then return as low on the mountain as possible.

So, if everything goes to plan we will be departing for the summit in the early hours of the 9th November, but realistically do not plan to get back to base camp until the 10th. This gives us a few days in reserve before the winds pick up on the 12th.

5th November

On the 31st the team split.  Debs and George decide to return back down to Hunde with Sheeba to try and fix the bugs and coughs that are proving to be somewhat persistent.  The rest of the team with Persemba and Norbu head back up the mountain for our next rotation stage.  We make pretty good time this time, an hour to the crampon  point and then only a few hours up to camp I.  First up some scree and then the snow covered scree before the angle steepens.  Some nice slabby mixed terrain; followed by a delicate traverse; a horrible gully where all the crud falls into; a steep final tower before the angle kicks back.  The sun leaves camp I at 1430 which results in plummeting temperatures, the only saving grace is that we are camping on gravel and not on snow.

On the 1st September saw us load carry to camp II for the first time.  It’s much easier terrain but still on fixed rope for the entire distance.  More scree slopes follow and then gradually rising snow slopes until a very short 5m steep wall before the angle kicks back to allow our camp to be set up.  It was pretty cold at camp II to be honest with a biting wind.  Tents, food and equipment are deposited before we return to camp I for a second night.  Norbu returns to base camp for the evening to help with more load carrying up the hill.

On the 2nd September, Persemba and the team head back up the mountain to spent our first night at camp II – situated  around 6000m . Overcast and pretty cold once again but we make it to camp II and get 4 tents set up.  Unfortunately, nobody got a  good night sleep that evening, mainly due to the wind.

Next morning it was too cold and windy to head further up the mountain so we quickly ejected ourselves back down to camp I and down to crampon point where we met the Sherpas returning back up the mountain.  5 Sherpas with 1000m of fixed rope and some ladders between them is a very impressive sight.    If anything, it put our ‘slightly uncomfortable’ night into perspective.  After a chat with Phurba about their plans, the team returned to base camp to be reunited with Debs and George.

We checked the weather forecast which showed very strong high winds but luckily no bad weather forecasted until the evening of the 6th.  As the team relaxed in base camp, we followed the Sherpa team making very slow progress back up to camp I on the binoculars.  Despite the weather forecast the Sherpa team were very happy to continue pushing on and playing things by ear.  Finally the ladders and rope make it to camp I.

Yesterday (4th) as the team relaxed in a very cold base camp (cloudy and cold), the Sherpas continued up to camp II and beyond.  They dumped the equipment as high as possible before returning to camp II for the night.

Today is the 5th and the sun is shining in base camp.  Showers have been taken and clothes have been washed. We are now waiting at base camp as the Sherpa’s continue fixing the route and will remain here until they return.  This mountain has been far more challenging than anybody imagined and I don’t think I have seen such a team of dedicated sherpas working so well together.  If we want this summit, they definitely want it more.

30th October

Di has emailed in with an update from base camp:

Today we are having a rest day at base camp, so catch up time with the news.

4 days ago (26th) we left the Annapurna circuit, full of jeeps, motorbikes and trekkers and set off on our 2 day trek to base camp.  We only trekked for 3.5 hours to set up camp on the moraine just off the Sabej Kholagaon at 3860m.  The trek was stunning up the quiet valley with Annapurna III looming over us the entire journey.  It was a great site to see Persemba Sherpa and the 2 cook boys who were already setting up camp.  Roshan (our cook) had sent down packed lunches and food for dinner and the following morning’s breakfast.  It was a fairly minimal camp but essential for our acclimitisation.  Our equipment followed (very) slowly with the donkeys and as the donkey men started their open fire to cook potatoes we cracked open our marshmallows and educated the non-Brits on the British traditions of toasted marshmallows – in fact we even introduced some Brits to the tradition who had never experienced the joy.  Sorry Stu – I deviated off the food list!

The following day we continued our trek to base camp following moraines to one of the most beautiful camp sites I have ever been to.  Base camp was set up in a very sheltered hollow at 4815m and we were met by Roshan since all the Sherpas were on the mountain fixing rope.  We are the only team here and we have the run of the mountain – we have individual tents; a space station to chill out and eat in; a cook tent; 2 loos and a shower tent.  The team all made it to base camp in good time, about 4 hours for most, and in fine fettle.  George, Di, Lakpa (one of our cook boys) and Persemba spent the afternoon sorting out mountain food which is always a giggle trying to educate locals what food we have actually bought in Kathmandu.

The 28th was a rest/acclimitisation/getting things ready day.  We met the team in full – we have 6 climbing sherpas:  Phurba, Persemba, Lakpha, Norbu, Norbu and Biri.  We also have Roshan our cook and Lhakpa and Dorchi helping in the kitchen, and Sheeba our base camp manager.  First up was some fixed rope practice for the team – even though we have a very experienced team, realistically the majority haven’t been on fixed ropes in the past 12 months so it’s good to shake off the cobwebs.

Yesterday was our first foray onto the mountain as we carried to camp 1 to return to base camp.  Information is very limited about the mountain, but we knew from looking at the route this was not going to be a walk in the park.  The sherpas have done an outstanding job fixing the ropes.  From base camp we walk for about 1.5 hours very gradually uphill to our crampon point.  From here we are on fixed ropes all the way to camp 1.  The initial 200m was straightforward up scree rubble covered with snow and then the steepness increased and the technical difficulties increased.  Lots of mixed rocky terrain on faces, traverses, gullies and a final steep section just when you think it is over.  From the final steep section it’s still about another 1.5 hours to camp 1 which is at 5640m.  On some sections the sherpas have put in double ropes – safety in numbers which suits me fine.

It was about 4 – 6 hours for the team from the crampon point to camp 1 so by the time the team returned to base camp, it was a fairly long day to say the least – hence the extra rest day.

The team had done well but unfortunately Debs had suffered from a bad cough so decided to sit this day out so as the rest of the team enjoy a rest day, Norbu and Debs are on their rotation today.  George turned round just underneath the final steep section feeling not on top form all day.  With the amount of experience that George has nobody was going to question this decision.

On our rotation yesterday Norbu and Persemba remained with the team and the remaining 4 Sherpas also climbed to Camp 1 to sleep.  Phurba; armed with a gps now and the knowledge to use it; and the remaining 3 are continuing to fix the route and get camps established for our next rotation.

View of Annapurna IV from Base Camp

25th October

We’ve received an update from Di and the team of their expedition so far, in short:

Drive Pokhara – tick

Helicopter to Chame – tick

Trek Hunde – tick

Acclimatisation hike to 4000m – tick

Eating too much food – tick

The expedition very nearly came to an abrupt halt today with some extreme bush whacking. We are spending the evening removing thorns from bodily parts.

Tomorrow the real fun starts. We now leave the Annapurna Circuit and it will take us 2 days to get to base camp.

Next update from the mountain proper.

22nd October

Di and the team have arrived in Kathmandu and have been to the Ministry to obtain the climbing permit, and are on their way to Pokhara.

17th October

I am bucking the trend here and the first news update comes from the UK.  A couple of reasons for this – I don’t think my feet will touch the ground when I get into Kathmandu and because this is a very exciting mountain.

Annapurna IV isn’t a well known mountain to be honest, and as such getting any kind of accurate information is pretty hard.  This is not to be seen as a negative but a very big positive as it feels like a commercial expedition is putting the real adventure back into the commercial world of high altitude mountaineering.

However, I now know a few things about Annapurna IV:

First up, I know that our Sherpa team left Beshishar at 0400 this morning to get a head start on the rest of the team.  Out of the 6 climbing Sherpas we have I am 90% sure that I have spent time on the mountains with at least 4 of them – always a bonus.

Secondly, in 1991 Richard Salisbury led an American Expedition to Annapurna IV.  When he met Elizabeth Hawley, he was very impressed by her knowledge and notes of expeditions to Annapurna IV.  He proposed the idea of transferring her records to a computer database and after an initial hesitation, she agreed.  The idea of the highly respected Himalayan Database was born.

Finally, due to the relationship that I have build up with the Himalayan Database over the years I was able to gain some more information from Billi.  The last expedition to Annapurna IV was in 2017, however the last expedition to summit was in 2015 and that was via the NW Ridge by 3 Japanese.  In total there are only 120 people who have summited and only 5 females.

Excited? You bet …

Next update from Nepal – somewhere!

Di

Find out more about our Annapurna IV Expedition