Elbrus May 2013 Expedition News

100% summit success!

Leader : Dean Beard
Read full Elbrus details and book online

5th June: 100% summit success!
Congratulations to the Elbrus expedition team who all put in a superb effort to reach the top of Europe’s highest peak. With 30mph winds, fresh snow fall, zero visibility and temps as low as -35, nothing was guaranteed, especially as there was no “perfect” weather window. In fact this turned out to be the best of what was on offer, so we took it.

Some were concerned about their ability to cope with these conditions at altitudes of over 5500meters but an amazing team atmosphere, camaraderie and trust in the leadership allowed all to approach the challenges fully prepared. This positive attitude gave the team the results they truly wanted – to stand on the top of Mt Elbrus.

We were all even rewarded with superb clear views at the top. Well done to Sue, Jude, Matthew, Nick and Scott for giving it their all…and succeeding!
Dean

1st June: A quick update from Dean, the team have reached the Karabashi Barrels at 3800m from which they will do some acclimatisation treks before their summit attempt. The weather is okay at the moment but looks like it could deteriorate, so they will be keeping an eye on that and pitching the acclimatisation walks accordingly.

31st May: Shower, clean clothes and a nice meal was the order of the day on our return from the Russian wilderness experience. Setting off in good weather into the depths of the Elbrus valley it’s not dissimilar to the Alps with its tall pine trees, snow capped peaks and rocky mountains. Elbrus is renowned for its rapidly changing weather and this was proved as we walked from bright sunshine into heavy rain soaking us through before reaching camp. Fortunately having the chance to dry off before bed allowed a cosy night sleep in our – not quite so 3 man tents! 3800m was our target peak today which we unfortunately had to retreat from. The recent rise in temperature and heavy rain made negotiating the snow covered ridge extremely difficult with all but a few section requiring everybody to wade through up to our waist in places. Just 50 meters in height short of our target I decide to turn the group around as the objective of acclimatisation had been achieved and it would have taken at least 2 more hours of intense effort to make the summit.

A tough few days testing everybody in their own way Sue and Jude easily managed to overcome their concerns about carrying weight and in addition set a very good pace. Matthew having to learn new walking techniques to overcome his previous training for running marathons. Probably the greatest challenge was overcome by Nick and Scott who realised they can go a few days without being in arms reach of a beer!

Tomorrow we leave for Mt Elbrus itself. With wind speeds of 40kph and temperature of -30, the real challenge for the team is about to begin. Dean

29th May: The group easily managed the toughest day yet with a 1400m ascent of Terskol Peak topping out at 3400m in good time. The weather once again proving reports incorrect to great relief as the predicted rain and snow storms actually developed into another sunny day with only the decent having to be done in snowfall. The high altitude gave the group the first chance to practice with crampons, doing basic self-arrests and breaking trail in knee deep snow.

Today is focused on squeezing every item of clothing, food, tents and sleeping gear into our rucksacks for the next few days which will involve a few nights out under the stars sleeping at a much higher altitude in full winter conditions. We will focus our efforts on summiting two ridges – Andirchi at 3800m and krumrichi 4200m. Both have had consistent heavy snowfall over the past several days which will add to the effort and vigilance required by everyone to reach the top safely. Dean.

27th May: The team arrived into Moscow on Saturday evening and then flew down to Mineralnye Vodi the following day. The same day they transferred to the Baksan valley.

The weather in the region has been extremely wet over the past several days which prompted a change of itinerary today as the original route took us to the glacier via a steep and severely drenched scree slope so an alternative acclimatisation trek to the nearby Terskol peak proved to be a much better option in what turned out to be a fantastically sunny and clear day. The first real days walking allowed the group to gain a 1000m in altitude Arriving at 3000m in good time. All coped brilliantly with very high spirits and banter to make the 6hr walk seem far shorter.

Tomorrow has a greater challenge in store with a trek to 3400m on Cheget Peak. The group are now in the processes of relaxing and resting for what will be one of the toughest and physically demanding days.

Gallery