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Alpamayo
From £4,395 Altitude 5,947m Grade: 4C
Alpamayo
Alpamayo with its sublimely steep and elegant lines, Alpamayo undoubtedly deserves its status as one of the world’s most beautiful peaks.
Alpamayo with its sublimely steep and elegant lines, Alpamayo undoubtedly deserves its status as one of the world’s most beautiful peaks. Situated in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, its impressive, fluted ice coat is a unique spectacle, ranking it as a coveted peak alongside Ama Dablam, the Matterhorn and Khan Tengri. We take acclimatisation seriously, first by climbing to the summit of Ishinca (5530m) and then Huarapasca a climbing peak and a good intermediary climb. Many others use Urus but this is basically a walking peak leaving you less prepared for the steepness of Alpamayo. Alpamayo is climbed via the French Direct, on the southwest face, on mostly 45-degree snow and ice. You should be comfortable on Alpine AD or Scottish Grade III.
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Dates & Prices
Availability
* A deposit of £400 will be required at checkout.
Extras
Extras can be added per-person when you book onto a date
| Item | Price | Days | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Inca Trail 5 Day Extension to Machu Picchu | £1,850 | +5 days | |
| Inca Trail Extension Flight Lima-Cusco Estimate | £200 | ||
| Inca Trail Extension Single Supplement | £130 |
* A deposit of £200 (or the full extra price, whichever is lower) will be required at checkout for each extra added per-person on this trip
What's Included
- International flights from London (Flight inclusive package)
- An Adventure Peaks team leader for larger groups. Small groups may use a local leader.
- Transfers to and from the in-country airport if flights booked with Adventure Peaks
- Permits, charges, importation taxes and levies payable to the Local Authorities in connection with the expedition.
- Food, fuel and cooking equipment whilst on the mountain.
- Hotel and other valley accommodation on a Bed & Breakfast basis.
- All tents and other communal equipment necessary for the climb.
- Medical safety equipment and supplies.
- Communication equipment (each member on a Grade 3B or above are normally provided with a radio whilst on the mountain and the team is often supported with a Satellite Telephone and e-mail facilities on extended expeditions at Base Camp).
- All team members will receive a free logoed trip T-Shirt with the name of your Expedition on it.
- 24 hour back up and support from UK staff
- 15% discount off the RRP on equipment and clothing purchased from Adventure Peaks shop
What's Excluded
- Personal climbing clothes and equipment.
- Personal insurance, visas, departure tax and inoculations.
- Travel to and from UK airport (unless otherwise specified).
- Transfers to and from the in country airport if flights NOT booked with Adventure Peaks
- Drinks and hotel or guest house meals, unless specified.
- Personal medical supplies and personal use of communication equipment.
- Excess baggage.
- Tips for porters and local guides.
- Costs associated with an expedition finishing early.
- Costs associated with you leaving an expedition early.
- Costs associated with extending a trip due to bad weather or other circumstances.
Itinerary
Day 1 | International flight to Lima. Arrive Lima, transfer to our overnight hotel for expedition briefing (H B) |
Day 2 | Drive to Huaraz early afternoon - a journey from sea level to 3,100m (H B) |
Day 3 | At leisure in Huaraz. Acclimatisation: having ascended to over 3000m in one day it is important to relax and acclimatise. Those who wish can go for a further acclimatisation walk up the local hills to get pictures of the Cordillera Blanca. (H B) |
Day 4 | Today we take an acclimatisation walk to around 4400m to Languna Chirup a beautiful lake, about a 6 hour round trip. (H B) |
Day 5 | From Huaraz we travel via the village of Paltay before continuing up the track to Cochapampa at 3600m to collect our mules. Base Camp is at Ishinca (4300m) about 5hrs walking from Cochapampa. (C,B,L,D) |
Day 6 | We make our final preparations and take a short walk up to a viewpoint over Laguna Ishinca (4600m) to gain further acclimatisation before attempting Ishinca the next morning (C,B,L,D) |
Day 7 | Move to Moraine Camp 4800m (C,B,L,D) |
Day 8 | Summit Ishinca 5530m - Ascended by the NW slopes, a little steeper but a fine climb with good views. Return to BC. (C,B,L,D) |
Day 9 | Climb Ulta Chico 5301m - A less frequented route than Ishinca and Urus that provides far better preparation for the steep climb on Alpamayo. Alpine AD. |
Day 10 | Return to Valley in about 3 hours, followed by 1 hour drive to Huaraz for a well-earned rest. (H B) |
Days 11 - 12 | Drive Huaraz to Cashapampa. Pick up our mules for the initial two day trek to Alpamayo base camp 4300m (C,B,L,D) |
Day 13 | Rest day at Base Camp 4300m. (C,B,L,D) |
Day 14 | Move to the Moraine camp at 4850m. (C,B,L,D) |
Day 15 | A 5-hour day mostly on the glacier, the final section to the col is steep, up to 70 degrees. Our camp is just over the col at 5300m. (C,B,L,D) |
Summit Days 16-17 | Two days have been set aside to aid our chance of success in case of poor weather. Our route to the summit of one of the world’s most beautiful peaks will be via the 400m long French Direct route Difficile up the SW Face. If the French Direct route is still threatened by Serac, then we will change to the Ferrari route. Initially the route takes us across easy snow slopes to the Bergschrund. From here 3 pitches of snow at 55 degrees leads to the impressive slanting flutings 3 pitches of 65 degrees. The final 2 pitches of 75 degrees lead directly to the main summit of Alpamayo. 5-6hrs. The descent is by abseil 3 hours. (C,B,L,D) |
Day 18 | Rest Day at Col |
Day 19 | Descend to Base Camp. (C,B,L,D) |
Day 20 | Return trek and drive to Huaraz. (H,B) |
Day 21 | Drive to Lima. (H,B) |
Days 22 - 23 | Return Flight. |
Insurance
It is essential for a trip of this type that you are adequately insured. When researching insurance options, please ensure the policy covers you for the following:
- Cancellation or curtailment
- Helicopter rescue (most insurance companies will no longer cover for ‘search and rescue’ but providing you stay with the group, they will assist with ‘rescue’)
- Repatriation
- The altitude that you are expected to attain
- The location especially when travelling to Antarctica
- Grade of trek/climb/expedition
- Medical cover
Adventure Peaks partners with Global Rescue to offer the world’s leading travel protection services. Medical and security emergencies happen. When they do, we rely on Global Rescue to provide our clients with medical, security, travel risk and crisis response services. Without a membership, an emergency evacuation could cost over $100,000. More than one million members trust Global Rescue to get them home safely when the unexpected happens. We highly recommend our clients enroll with Global Rescue, in particular for peaks over 7000m:
https://partner.globalrescue.com/adventurepeaks/
We are aware the following provide insurance:
For UK based clients:
Expeditions and Treks under 7000m - Campbell Irvine Direct : http://www.campbellirvine.com/AdventurePeaks
HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK) www.aacuk.org.uk Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
Rothwell & Towler: www.world-first.co.uk Tel: 0345 908 0161 (under 6400m)
J S Insurance: www.jsinsurance.co.uk Tel: 0844 848 1500
Snowcard: www.snowcard.co.uk Tel: 01295 660836
The B.M.C.: www.thebmc.co.uk Tel: 0161 445 6111 (call and speak to Jim. Please note the BMC cannot cover Mt Damavand)
Dogtag: www.dogtag.co.uk Tel: 0800 036 4824 (Check excess etc)
For non-UK based clients:
HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK): www.aacuk.org.uk Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
AXA Worldwide Travel Ins: www.axainsurance.com Tel: +44 (0)844 874 0360
Ingle International: www.ingleinternational.com Tel: (USA) 1.800.360.3234
Insure for Less: www.insure4less.com.au (Australian clients)
You do not have to use any of the above, but if you make your own insurance arrangements documentary evidence of your own policy is required.
Please forward the details of your Insurance as soon as you have it: we need the insurance company’s name, their 24 hour emergency telephone number and your insurance policy number – admin@adventurepeaks.com