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Ismoil Somoni
From £7,600 Altitude 7,495m Grade: 4C
Ismoil Somoni
The highest 7000m peak of the Russian Snow Leopard (aka Peak Communism).
Ismoil Somoni (aka Peak Communism) is the highest mountain in Tajikistan and a cherished dream of any mountaineer being one of the most beautiful and interesting 7000m peak climbs in the world. A mountain that has seen many names: in 1933 Stalin Peak, in 1962 Communism Peak and in 1998 Ismoil Somoni after the ancestor of the Samanid dynasty. The ascent starts from a base camp Moskvina Glade (4200m) which can only logically be approached by helicopter. Many climbers attempt Vorobeva peak (5691 m) or Chetyreh peak (6299 m) as part of their acclimatization. Four further camps are placed to reach the impressive small rocky summit with its spectacular panoramic views across the whole Pamirs and into China.
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Dates & Prices
Availability
* A deposit of £400 will be required at checkout.
Extras
Extras can be added per-person when you book onto a date
| Item | Price | |
|---|---|---|
| Korzhenevskaya Peak extension | £3,500 | |
| Peak Pobeda extension | £8,500 |
* A deposit of £200 (or the full extra price, whichever is lower) will be required at checkout for each extra added per-person on this trip
What's Included
- International flights from London (Flight inclusive package).
- A British expedition team leader. Small groups may use a local leader.
- Travel to and from UK airport (unless otherwise specified).
- Internal flights
- Transfers to and from the in-country airport if flights booked with Adventure Peaks
- Permits, charges, importation taxes and levies payable to the Local Authorities in connection with the expedition.
- Food, fuel and cooking equipment whilst on the mountain.
- Hotel accommodation in Dushanbe on a Bed & Breakfast basis.
- All tents and other communal equipment necessary for the climb.
- Medical safety equipment and supplies.
- Communication equipment (each member on a Grade 3B or above are normally provided with a radio whilst on the mountain and the team is often supported with a Satellite Telephone and e-mail facilities on extended expeditions at Base Camp).
- All team members will receive a free logoed trip T-Shirt with the name of your Expedition on it.15% off the RRP on clothing and equipment purchases from Adventure Peaks shop
What's Excluded
- Personal climbing clothes and equipment.
- Personal insurance, visas, departure tax and inoculations.
- Transfers to and from the in-country airport if flights NOT booked with Adventure Peaks
- Drinks and hotel or guest house meals unless specified.
- Personal medical supplies.
- Personal use of communication equipment.
- Excess baggage.
- Tips for porters and local guides.
- Costs associated with an expedition finishing early.
- Costs associated with you leaving an expedition early.
- Costs associated with extending a trip due to bad weather or other circumstances.
Itinerary
Days 1 - 2 | Depart UK with Siberian Airlines, arriving Dunshanbe early the following morning. Transfer to the hotel. Around lunch time we will transfer to Djirgital. |
Day 3 | Helicopter flight to Base camp at Moskvina Glade. |
Day 4 | Acclimatisation around base camp. |
Day 5 | A short day moving to the camp at the junction of Vorobyova and the Glacier crossing for Ismoil. |
Day 6 | Today we will walk up to around 5300m on Vorobyova, returning back to our camp in the valley. |
Day 7 | Ascent to Camp 1. We go along the right bank of the Valter Glacier to reach the ‘helicopter pad’, then cross the glacier under the foot of Borodkin Spur. We cross below the ‘pillow’ of the glacier as fast as possible (due to a snow-ice falls danger) and follow up a spur to get to Camp 1 at 5100m (2 to 3 fixed ropes will be used). |
Days 8 - 9 | Ascent to Camp 2. We ascend a wide snow ridge not steeper than 40°, but care must be taken with some seracs, crevasses and snow bridges. Depending on the snow conditions, up to 7 fixed ropes can be useful here. The camp is either at 5600m, or at 5800m. |
Days 10 - 11 | Today we push up to 6300m, the high point of the ridge before it descends down to the plateau. We return to Camp 2 for another night before returning to base camp the next day. |
Days 12 - 13 | Rest at Base Camp. |
Days 14 - 16 | Ascent back to Camp 2 and rest day. |
Days 17 - 18 | Ascent to Camp 4 on Dushanbe peak (6900m). Technically not difficult yet we move roped up on snow and ice. If we are short of time or if tired, we can pitch a camp earlier: at 6400m or 6700m |
Day 19 | Summit day. With more challenging terrain and the altitude this is a demanding day. A steep and hard snow slope leads to the ‘knife-edge’ of the summit ridge. The summit however is a small rocky platform with a lot flat rocks to sit on for a rest. We return to camp 4 for the night. |
Days 20 - 22 | Reserve summit days if required. |
Days 23 - 24 | Descend to base camp |
Day 25 | Helicopter and transfer back to Dushanbe |
Day 26 | Early morning departure for international flights |
Insurance
It is essential for a trip of this type that you are adequately insured. When researching insurance options, please ensure the policy covers you for the following:
- Cancellation or curtailment
- Helicopter rescue (most insurance companies will no longer cover for ‘search and rescue’ but providing you stay with the group, they will assist with ‘rescue’)
- Repatriation
- The altitude that you are expected to attain
- The location especially when travelling to Antarctica
- Grade of trek/climb/expedition
- Medical cover
Adventure Peaks partners with Global Rescue to offer the world’s leading travel protection services. Medical and security emergencies happen. When they do, we rely on Global Rescue to provide our clients with medical, security, travel risk and crisis response services. Without a membership, an emergency evacuation could cost over $100,000. More than one million members trust Global Rescue to get them home safely when the unexpected happens. We highly recommend our clients enroll with Global Rescue, in particular for peaks over 7000m:
https://partner.globalrescue.com/adventurepeaks/
We are aware the following provide insurance:
For UK based clients:
Expeditions and Treks under 7000m - Campbell Irvine Direct : http://www.campbellirvine.com/AdventurePeaks
HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK) www.aacuk.org.uk Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
Rothwell & Towler: www.world-first.co.uk Tel: 0345 908 0161 (under 6400m)
J S Insurance: www.jsinsurance.co.uk Tel: 0844 848 1500
Snowcard: www.snowcard.co.uk Tel: 01295 660836
The B.M.C.: www.thebmc.co.uk Tel: 0161 445 6111 (call and speak to Jim. Please note the BMC cannot cover Mt Damavand)
Dogtag: www.dogtag.co.uk Tel: 0800 036 4824 (Check excess etc)
For non-UK based clients:
HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK): www.aacuk.org.uk Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
AXA Worldwide Travel Ins: www.axainsurance.com Tel: +44 (0)844 874 0360
Ingle International: www.ingleinternational.com Tel: (USA) 1.800.360.3234
Insure for Less: www.insure4less.com.au (Australian clients)
You do not have to use any of the above, but if you make your own insurance arrangements documentary evidence of your own policy is required.
Please forward the details of your Insurance as soon as you have it: we need the insurance company’s name, their 24 hour emergency telephone number and your insurance policy number – admin@adventurepeaks.com