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Peak Lenin is a spectacular 7000m peak offering incredible views of the Pamirs.
Peak Lenin can be a tough and physically demanding mountain but we have achieved a good level of expedition success over the past decade due to our unique itinerary that includes a camp 4 at 6400m to shorten the summit day by at least 2-3 hours to less than eight hours compared to other operators (avoiding the normal 10-13 hr. climb from Camp 3). High altitude porters carry all group equipment and the guiding ratio is increased to 1:3 giving greater flexibility on summit day to more easily match your speed of movement and fitness level.
You may also wish to consider Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105m), in neighbouring Tajikistan, which we have found to be less physically demanding allowing us to maintain a 100% expedition success level.
Peak Lenin at 7134m is the third highest mountain in the former Soviet Union and is situated in the Pamirs range of Kyrgyzstan that borders with China and Tajikistan . The climb is non-technical and truly Himalayan by proportion and it is one of only five 7000m peaks in the former USSR. The others include Ismoil Somoni (Peak Communism, 7495m) and Korzhenevsky (7105m), both in the Pamirs, and Peak Pobeda (7439m) and Khan Tengri (7010m) in the Tien Shan region of Kyrgyzstan. To climb all five admits you to the elite group of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards.
Base Camp is quite idyllic, situated on a raised meadow of Alpine flowers between two steep river valleys. From Base Camp we head over the Puteshestvinnikov Pass to the moraine of the Lenin Glacier which is ascended to reach camp 1(ABC) at 4200m. We aim to establish three further camps, crossing the subsidiary peak Razdelny. It is from here the views really open up towards Ismoil Somoni and the Hindu Kush. The summit is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Muztagh Ata and Kongur in China and to the west, the Karakoram.
* A deposit of £400 will be required at checkout.
Day 1 | International flight |
Day 2 | Arrive in Bishkek. Overnight hotel. Final Preparations, gear check and any final shopping (H, B) |
Day 3 | Fly to Osh and Transfer to Achik-Tash BC (3700m) Morning flight to Osh. We then transfer from Osh to base camp via the Sary-Magol/Alai valley a journey of about 5 hours. (C, B, D) |
Day 4 | Acclimatisation on Petrovskogo Peak |
Day 5 | BC - Camp 1 |
Day 6 | A low activity day at Base Camp to aid acclimatisation and recap on glacial travel and crevasse rescue skills. (C, B, L, D) |
Day 7 | Ascend Yukina Peal for acclimatisation. We ascend a lovely peak close to ABC that gives outstanding views towards Camp 2 and the route beyond to Peak Lenin. This is an important day of acclimatisation as we want to ensure you are ready to move up to Camp 2 with a degree of strength and efficiency as the route is crevassed and can also be prone to avalanche after heavy snow falls. (C, B, L, D) |
Day 8 | Today after striking camp, we descend back down to ABC in time for breakfast 2-3hrs. (C, B, L, D) |
Day 9 | Camp 1 (ABC) - Camp 2 |
Day 10 | Acclimatisation |
Day 11 | Mount Razdelnaya to Camp 3 |
Day 12 | Descend to Camp 1 (C, B, L, D) |
Day 13 | Rest Day (C, B, L, D) |
Day 14-15 | Ascend to Camp 2 and Ascend to Camp 3 (we have the option to summit from Camp 3) (C, B, L, D) |
Day 16 | Move to Camp 4 |
Day 17 | Summit Day |
Days 18 - 20 | Reserve Summit Days |
Day 21 | Return to Camp 1 (ABC) Clearing the mountain as we go, we head back down to base camp (C, B, L, D) |
Day 22 | Return to BC, Transfer to Osh. (H, B) |
Days 23-24 | Morning flight to Bishkek. Evening flight departing Bishkek on Day 23 or early morning on day 24 |
It is essential for a trip of this type that you are adequately insured. When researching insurance options, please ensure the policy covers you for the following:
Adventure Peaks partners with Global Rescue to offer the world’s leading travel protection services. Medical and security emergencies happen. When they do, we rely on Global Rescue to provide our clients with medical, security, travel risk and crisis response services. Without a membership, an emergency evacuation could cost over $100,000. More than one million members trust Global Rescue to get them home safely when the unexpected happens. We highly recommend our clients enroll with Global Rescue, in particular for peaks over 7000m:
https://partner.globalrescue.com/adventurepeaks/
We are aware the following provide insurance:
Expeditions and Treks under 7000m - Campbell Irvine Direct : http://www.campbellirvine.com/AdventurePeaks
HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK) www.aacuk.org.uk Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
Rothwell & Towler: www.world-first.co.uk Tel: 0345 908 0161 (under 6400m)
J S Insurance: www.jsinsurance.co.uk Tel: 0844 848 1500
Snowcard: www.snowcard.co.uk Tel: 01295 660836
The B.M.C.: www.thebmc.co.uk Tel: 0161 445 6111 (call and speak to Jim. Please note the BMC cannot cover Mt Damavand)
Dogtag: www.dogtag.co.uk Tel: 0800 036 4824 (Check excess etc)
HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK): www.aacuk.org.uk Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
AXA Worldwide Travel Ins: www.axainsurance.com Tel: +44 (0)844 874 0360
Ingle International: www.ingleinternational.com Tel: (USA) 1.800.360.3234
Insure for Less: www.insure4less.com.au (Australian clients)
You do not have to use any of the above, but if you make your own insurance arrangements documentary evidence of your own policy is required.
Please forward the details of your Insurance as soon as you have it: we need the insurance company’s name, their 24 hour emergency telephone number and your insurance policy number – admin@adventurepeaks.com
Excellent trip, excellent guide. The whole experience was fantastic, had an amazing team.
Great leader and well-planned trip...Stu [leader] was very pleasant, understanding and supportive. Great guy!!!
A fantastic trip and exhilarating challenge with amazing scenery. We had a great lead guide (Robert Smith) and a strong Russian local guide to get most of us to a successful summit.
Good leadership skills from your guides, well done both very experienced and helpful.
The camps were very well equipped with helpful staff. I decided not to push higher at ABC and was well looked after as a lone client in the camp. I enjoyed the trekking in and out and brief time on the mountain when the weather permitted, the group was also fun and positive.
Your guide impressed me due to plenty of mountain experience in the region, involvement of clients and wise decisions in difficult and bad weather conditions.
Excellent service from him in bringing down clients left gear from camp two and three after decision to not make any more attempts to summit. He went up alone and brought down all gear by himself. Good social kitchen staff despite poor selection.
We had wonderful Western and Russian leaders and an excellent group of clients-we got on really well. Great scenery and photography from day one.
I loved Camp Three but did not make the summit due to the heavy packs and deeper soft snow it exhausted me between camps 1 to 3, however still a great trip!
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