Snow and Ice Climbing Course. April '15

Course report:  Ken Applegate
Course: Improvers Snow and Ice Climbing

Both Howie and Ed had a solid mountaineering foundation to build on, so with a wild forecast for Tuesday, we decided to stay out of the worst of it, and climb the classic North Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor.  This gave them both their first taste of steeper mixed climbing, which they revelled in.

We climbed the route in 4 pitches, whilst placing an emphasis on stance management and parallel ropework.  The route lends itself well to abseiling back down the line, handy with the wild winds, so we looked at retreating safely whilst abseiling.  This was new ground for both Howie and Ed, and something they can transfer to their summer mountaineering too.

They both enjoyed the day so much, that they requested a similar day for Wednesday, so with consolidation in the snowpack, and a reduction in the forecasted avalanche hazards, we blazed a trail, through deep snow, into Stob Coire nan Lochan, and climbed the brilliant Raeburn”s (Ordinary) Route on Central Buttress.

The volume of snow made it quite tough going, but fortunately, where needed, there was a good layer of firm snow, good enough for axe placements. The final pitch featured a little less snow, and gave a brilliant mixed pitch, which again, both Howie and Ed took in their stride. It’s been a great couple of days and two classic Glencoe mixed routes in the bag.

Gallery