Trip Report - Corsica's GR20, 16th Sept 2017

Trip Report: Corsica’s GR20 Trek, 16th – 29th September 2017

Trek leader: Jack Oliver

The GR20 in Corsica is arguably Europe’s finest mountain trek. Its spectacular scenery, breath taking colours and free roaming wildlife are only accessible to those who are prepared to do some serious walking and seek a challenge.

In French, G.R. stands for “Grande Randonnée” [great trek]. Of all the long distance footpaths spreading across Europe, the GR20 definitely has the reputation of being the toughest of them all with a total distance of 187km and 10,500 metres of ascent over 13 days of trekking.

Sunday 17^th September

Calenzana – Refuge d’Ortu

After a rather filling breakfast, last minute kit checks and of course a final good coffee, the team including leaders Jack and Julien departed the comfort of the hotel in Calvi to head to the start of the GR20 in the town of Calenzana. From here we would spend the next 10 days walking south along one of the most iconic mountain trails Europe has to offer.

The start of the GR20 really starts as it means to go on ….UP! That said the team were in high spirits and soon learnt that this was a marathon not a sprint. Over the course of the day the team climbed higher than any mountains in the UK and then climbed a little higher! Right away you really get a feeling that you’re leaving the cities and heading into the wilderness with towering mountains in the distance; everyone was excited to see what was in store for us.  The first day was a great introduction to what the next two weeks would be like and everyone arrived at the first refuge laughing and looking forward to our first night under the stars after a good meal which would be a theme of the trip.

Monday 18^th September

Refuge d’Ortu – Refuge Carozzu

Day 2 would see an early start to the day as we made our way around the rugged shoulder of the valley before spending the morning climbing to the Bocca Piccaia at the head of the valley where we had spent the night. From the col the views were nothing less than amazing, full of rock spires and huge granite towers in the distance (we would later learn that we would be walking past these). Before long we were on the move again traversing around the mountain tops above us before a steep rocky descent down to the refuge. Although tired and feeling a little sore in the legs, the whole team took the day in their stride and after a quick shower, some good food and a glass of wine to wash it down, everyone hunkered down for the night, narrowly missing the rain that followed for the night.

Tuesday 19^th September

Refuge Carozzu – Haut Asco

Today was a tough day and there is no real way to avoid this section; after leaving the refuge we found ourselves walking down steep granite slabs and up small scrambly sections of rock. This would be a good introduction to how the next few days would be, everyone in the team made short work of these sections and MAY have even put Jack (a climber) to shame on one particular section – but that’s a story for another day! The rest of the day involved steep rocky ascents and short scrambles as we worked our way through winding valleys and over the col at the tip of the A Muvrella face where in the distance our objective for the day could be seen…our hotel. The walk down from here was very steep and rugged but incredibly rewarding, as we worked our way down the valley from the col through the trees before reaching the ski station and our base camp for the night. Tonight the team were wined and dined and given the chance to get some proper R&R in our first hotel of the trek; we enjoyed fine food and a rather competitive game of cards.

Wednesday 20^th September

Haut Asco –  Refuge de Tighjettu

The walk from Haut Asco to Refuge de Tighjettu is described in the book as “the toughest day on the northern section of the walk” because it involves a steep and rugged trek up to Corsica’s highest mountain top – Monte Cinto (2706m). It is indeed a tough day that requires an even earlier start than normal but this only adds to how rewarding the day is; after around 5 hours climbing we reached the col of the mountain and ahead of us in the far distance lay our first glimpse of the south section which was in store for the rest of the week.

This afternoon’s path wove its way around granite capped peaks over one rock pinnacle and down another, and the afternoon was all about spending time scrambling around these pinnacles, something which the group enjoyed and with more and more confidence they were soon looking like pros.

Thursday 21^st September

Refuge de Tighjettu – Hotel Castel

The first four stages of the GR20 are really quite tough, yesterday being one of the toughest, so we were pleased to have it behind us. We relished a later start than normal and a group yoga session -much to the amusement of everyone else! The team appreciated a slightly easier day than the previous four- although a little longer in distance, the day as whole had slightly less ascent than normal and this was well received by the whole team.

Friday 22^nd September

Hotel Castel – Bergerie de Vaccaghja

After a pleasant day yesterday it was nice to know that today would be just as fun. Despite its length the day was virtually flat walking through woodland and large grass fields. For most of the day the team had the chance to stride out and walk in a manner that is not always possible on the GR20. We had the chance to visit the Lac Du Ninu, a large lake that sits in the mountain valley and catches the sun, this was also the first place that we would have one of our regular lunch time snoozes – and what a spot for it. Our refuge for the night was also where we were introduced to a drink that some would love and others would hate: Grappa, a local drink that would put hairs on anyone’s chest – expect for Julian who had grown up on the stuff! It’s customary to drink this prior to an evening meal and today this really added to what was turning out to be a day of firsts.

Saturday 23^rd September 

Bergerie de Vaccaghja – Refuge de Petra Pianna

Today we faced a hard day’s walking as the path climbed through the valley past Refuge Manganu to reach the highest point of the main route, the Breche de Capitellu. At 2225m the views were magnificent looking over two lakes. We walked down to one for some well overdue swimming, as at this point the heat was really cranking up – which is great if you’re Australian and used to the 30 degree heat but leader Jack was not and he was more than happy to take the chance to cool off in the stunning lake.

After some more awkward slabs and a descent through boulders and gullies we reached our next objective, the high pass of Bocca Muzzel. From here it was a steep stony path down to the refuge and our home for the night where everyone enjoyed the chance to chat to people who we were sharing our journey with along the way, as well as some fine Corsican wine and watched the stars come out over our heads.

Sunday 24^th September

Refuge De Petra Pianna –  La Vizzavona

At this stage the team knew that they had the worst out the way and today was our last day on the rugged northern section. It did not disappoint, an early start meant an early finish and the chance to see the sun come up over this spectacular spot. The day involved steep mountain terrain followed by a long downhill before walking back up again but after a hard morning’s walk past Monte d’Ore, out of nowhere our hotel appeared down in the valley in Vizzavona. A steady trek down through the trees working our way around the mountain river brought us to our hotel with soft mattresses, fine food, showers and washing. This was a well-deserved evening of celebration as we had now passed the half way mark and completed the hardest part of the trek.

Monday 25^th September

La Vizzavona – Col de Verde

Today marked the first day of our time walking the south section of the GR20 and although relatively flat it is was massive 28km in length. The trail worked its way around the mountain valley winding and twisting through lush forested areas full of wildlife and incredible scenery. This gave the whole team a chance to rest their legs and with our bags a little lighter than previous days we were able to really take our time and enjoy where we were.

After today’s efforts the team were named The Australian Rocket by the other trekkers because everyone was so impressed by how fast they moved.

Tuesday 26^th September

Col de Verde – Refuge Usciolu

After the relaxed atmosphere and amazing food at Col de Verde it was nice to get back into the meat of the trek and get our legs really moving again. Today was essentially a ridge walk but not exactly along the ridge, rather along a path from one side to the other. The ridge was rocky and not always easy with large scrambling parts and more undulating ground. For most of the day we were high up and treated to incredible views across from the east all the way to the west coast which was breath-taking. Sharon today made the bold fashion statement of wearing her buff like Rambo…and so ‘Shambow’ was born! Tonight we were treated to more Grappa and even more fine food before a quick game of cards which by now was getting very competitive … Rumour has it that Jack even bet his car on a game once!

Wednesday 27^th September

Refuge Usciolu – Bergeries de Croci

Another super day as we made more headway to the end of the GR20. Today we really got the feeling that we had left the rugged mountains of the north behind and that the environment was starting to change as it became slightly (ever so slightly) flatter and little less rocky. A shorter day than normal for the south section meant that the Australian Rocket could take their time and chat to other walkers who by now we had grown to know quite well (in fact I’m convinced that we may have adopted a few of them). Once we arrived at the Bergeries we were treated to hot showers and a warm welcome before another super meal – this meal won the title of the best meal on the trek and that was hard fought title. It was here that Gracie out-showed Jack by eating the biggest portion of lasagna you would ever see.

Thursday 28^th September

Bergeries de Croci – Bavella

From the comforts of the Bergeries we made an early start to a long and tough day compared to the rest of the south section but when you’ve done the north it feels very achievable and the Australian Rocket again made short work of the rough sections. The trail led right up the valley and down the other side past another refuge. In the distance the huge Bavella granite spires loomed, these were our objective for the day and would mark our last major up section of the trip so the whole team were excited to get this out of the way. The Alpine variant up here is steep and certainly no walkover but 100% worth taking for the views, from the top we had views to the village of Bavella and back to the valleys we had walked in the preceding days. After a steep descent down the pass for the first time in five days our feet touched tarmac and it was very welcome.

Friday 29^th September 

Bavella – Conca

An early start to get one more sunrise in before the end of the trip today we would walk the final 15 km to the end of the GR20, the perfect chance for the team to reflect and share stories of an amazing trip. Once at Conca there was time for celebratory drinks and thanks before we headed our own ways. The team had the weekend on the beach which was very well-deserved, Jack was bound for the UK with another trip on the horizon and Julien had to get ready for another GR20 trip.