The Eiger, like the Matterhorn, is an iconic peak. The aim of this course is ideally to traverse the mountain via two ridges with an ascent of the Mittellegi Ridge and the descent via the South Ridge to the Monchsjoch Hut to complete a classic traverse of the mountain. However if conditions are snowy we may opt to climb the South Ridge instead.

To allow the greatest level of flexibility for weather and conditions we will initially base ourselves in the Saas valley for acclimatisation and training before moving across to Grindelwald on the best weather window for a successful summit attempt.

Previous Experience

Previous Alpine mountaineering to AD, Scottish Winter grade II/III and UK multi pitch rock climbing to at least grade Diff/Severe in mountain boots rather than rock shoes while wearing a rucksack.
If you have no previous mountaineering experience, we recommend you join one our Alpine Introduction courses in Chamonix, Arolla or Gran Paradiso. We also offer rock climbing and alpine preparation courses in the Lake District to develop your skills ahead of this course.

Dates & Prices

Itinerary

Sample Programme
Please note this may be changed, including the acclimatisation peaks climbed, which day is a rest day etc, as a result of weather, snow conditions and individual levels of fitness.
It is important to have a flexible approach to the trip to ensure you can get the most out of it and adapt to conditions, as an exact itinerary cannot be guaranteed. The itinerary is for an 8-day programme with 6 mountain days.

Day 1 (Saturday) Travel to Saas Grund/Fee in time for the Evening Briefing. Your guide will run through a kit check, discuss the week and your aspiration in conjunction with the weather and mountain conditions and how these will affect the course planning. You should arrive at the latest early evening Meet your guide this evening at your hotel in the Saas Valley to run for a kit check and to discuss the week’s activities in conjunction with the current weather and mountain conditions and how these will affect the itinerary.

Days 2-4 (Sun-Tue) These days are essential for training and acclimatisation and will be on alpine terrain PD+/AD similar to what you will encounter on the Eiger. The routes chosen will combine scrambling and climbing on rock and mixed rock/snow and ice ridges in mountaineering boots. We will aim to stay in high mountain huts above the Saas valley. Two or three of the following routes should be achievable: (MH, B, D)

Jegilhorn - An acclimatisation day to 3206m that provides some excellent multi pitch climbing up to 10+ pitches in length that would be climbed in mountaineering boots (return to valley hotel)

Portschengrat - A traverse of Portjengrat (3,654m) AD+ the traverse is a fabulous outing on rock. Overnight in Hut

Dri Horlini - Ascend to the Almageller Hut (2,894m) with an afternoon climb of the Dri Horlini (AD) an excellent and classic climb with an airy ridge. Overnight hut.

Lagginhorn 4010m – South Ridge (AD) - a great mountaineering route involving exposed ridge climbing. Descend to the valley

Fletchhorn (3993m) – Lagginhorn (4010m) traverse (AD) – a longer mountain day taking in a fine ridge traverse of the Fletschhorn, a descent to the Fletschjoch and then the NNE ridge of the Lagginhorn. Descend to the valley.

Tuesday evening – descend to our hotel in the Saas Valley. If the weather forecast looks better for Wed/Thu your guide may suggest travelling to Grindelwald on Tuesday.

Days 5 (Wed) Ascent of Eiger (3970m). Travel to Grindelwald in the morning, then take the spectacular mountain railway up through the Eiger itself to the Eismeer station, before heading to the spectacularly positioned Mittellegi Hut. The ascent to the hut is in itself a technical day. (MH, B, D)

Day 6 (Thu) The summit day for the Mittellegi Ridge starts at dawn over rocky terrain, with several fixed ropes in the upper section to finally gain the snowy summit ridge where crampons will be needed. The descent is via the long South Ridge, involving some abseiling, to the Monchsjoch Hut to complete a classic traverse of the mountain. Possible descent to Grindelwald via the Jungfraujoch railway If conditions are snowy, we may opt on Day 5 to climb the South Ridge AD. (MH, B, D)

Day 7 (Fri) Reserve Summit Day. If we succeed on Thursday, then this day may be used for some further mountain activities, rock climbing or the Rotstock via Ferrata next to the North face of the Eiger. Hotel in Grindelwald

Day 8 (Sat) Breakfast and departure.

Photos

Insurance

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