Winter Mountaineering course - January 2015

Course report: Ken Applegate
Course: Winter Mountaineering course

Joanne had previous basic winter mountaineering experience and rock climbing experience, she wanted to develop these further along with specific expedition skills in preparation for a Scottish climbing trip with friends a future high altitude trip.

With a mixed forecast, we made the most of the colder temps on Monday, by heading into Coire Nan Lochan in Glencoe, where we covered movement skills, ice axe arrests and a look at the snow pack before taking the easiest line up Dorsal Arete, which was in brilliant condition.

On the second day, with some aching legs and a substantial thaw, we went to the Ice Factor and first spent some time in the freezer, looking at moving on steeper ground and the use of ice screws, before using the rock wall to look at basic rope work, belays and abseiling. That evening, I gave a presentation that focused on the winter environment (Weather, Equipment, Navigation and Avalanche Awareness), before we then went through the ‘Spot-Checks’ Avalanche Presentation).

With strong westerly winds forecasted, we visited Beinn A’Chaorainn. The winds would have been manageable on the East Ridge, but Stephen felt that he would be well outside of his comfort zone, so we turned it into a skills day, looking at snow anchors and associated ropework. That evening, I gave a presentation of my recent self-supported expedition to Nepal, where my other half and I summited Island Peak & Ama Dablam. (Coincidently a couple of days before the Adventure Peaks team turned up).

On Thursday, Stephen had to depart the course, due to unforeseen work commitments, so James and I went up the Zig Zags, and over to the summit of Gearr Aonach, before descending the same way. We also took in the first pitch of Zig Zags Direct, which gave an additional and enjoyable pitch of mountaineering.

For the final day, James & I went up School House Ridge, just behind Ballachulish. With such favourable conditions, we also took in the summit of Sgorr Dearg, before descending.

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