Winter Mountaineering in Morocco

Leader: Stu Peacock and Dave Fisher. Departed 25th January

1st February: The group have enjoyed themselves climbing some of the cascades around the hut today. Despite the deep snow we headed over towards the col for Toubkal to a 25m ice fall. The wind was still whip ping around and there was sign of the sun but it didn’t stop us having a play on the ice.

After lunch we headed to another set of ice falls and climbed until it started to get dark. Finally the winds have abated and there was even the glimpse of a blue sky. We’ve decided to all head down tomorrow morning as it could take quite a bit longer with the amount of snow on the ground, but it will give the team more time in marrakech before we head home.

31st January: The weather here has been very harsh to say the least with 1m of snow dumped over night which had made it impossible for people to leave the hut. That said Team AP didn’t want to sit on our laurels so this afternoon we ventured out and spent 3 hours building bucket seats, ice axe belays snow bollards as well as looking at snow pack with rustch block which showed excellent example of the layering of the snow and the large wind slab build up.

We were the only people to venture out today and had lots of crazy looks from the locals as well as the other refuge users especially as we had to Wade waist deep for 50m to get to the slope were we ran through the skills. Despite the weather all the clients found it really useful and broke the monotony of being couped up in the hut.

Realistically tomorrow, even if the weather does improve, will mean it’s near impossible to achieve another peak. We hope we will be able to make it to a nearby ice fall to do some top roping. Just getting back out to Imlil is going to be a real challenge as we’ve been told there is a metre of snow at Around and snow down at Imlil as well.

29th January pm: Well we’re all back safe and sound at the Nelter refuge after a wild day on the Hill. A wild Scottish day would not be an understatement!!!

We set off at 7am in good conditions which soon changed as the winds whipped up and the clag and snow came in. Dave Fisher headed down with Zoe from 3650m as Zoe wasn’t feeling so great. The rest of the team battled on and reached the summit in Around 4-4.5 hours. Neil and Charlotte from the winter walking trip also reached the summit so it’s celebrations all round tonight.

The weather is meant to be getting worse so we’re glad to bag Toubkal while we had the chance. Tomorrow may be a low level skills day for everyone..

29th January: After talking through the weather with the team we have decided to go for Toubkal tomorrow. If the heavy snow does come in tomorrow afternoon then it’s really going to limit our chances later in the week. Team are happy with the plan and will get an early night ready for a 6:30 start.

Team AP has had our first acclimatisation day today. We headed up to a col called Tizi n’Ouanoums at a height of 3684m. We were greeted with beautiful views across to the Sahara.

Stunning Blue skies today and hardly any wind. Although it looks like things are in the turn tomorrow we’re expecting a big dump of snow in the afternoon and winds picking up in Thursday and Friday. But we’ll make the most of what we get given.

The food has been excellent and we’re all looking forward to some grub now.

28th January: Team AP are now at the Nelter Refuge and settling in nicely to the comforts of alpine hut life.

Snow is firm under foot on the main trails but as soon as your off the beaten path it’s a bit more challenging. We forsee lots of trail braking in deep snow which is always good for morale:-)

Weather is stunning at the moment and looking good for the next few days.

27th January am: The team have now arrived. Everything so far going like clockwork. Met our trekking guide Mohammed and another chap Laly. 1 hour 30 mins to Imlil and then 40 minute gentle walk to our hotel.

27th January pm: Team are being well looked after. Chicken Tagine last night was fantastic. And great views of some snowy peaks from Around. Today we have a 5 hour walk to the Nelter refuge at 3200m.

26th January: All the team have arrived safely in Marrakesh. Also met the clients who are doing the winter walking trip. They leave at 8am this morning and we don’t leave until 2pm. So we have time to see the impressive sights of the Medina before our 2 hour drive to Imlil and then 40 min walk to Around. We’re told there has been a good dump of snow last week so hopefully conditions are good.